Hello,
Today, I’d like to talk a bit about knitting traditions. I’m not an expert or a researcher, but I am a great lover of traditional knitting techniques and patterns. There are many beautiful and interesting books about traditional knitting, and I’ve built up quite a nice library over the years. These books, as well as various museum collections, have always inspired me tremendously in my own knitting. But lately I’ve been thinking…
It started with a visit to a stunning sock exhibition last November. I was particularly inspired by three samplers with patterns taken from socks from all over the world (photo above), and thought it would be a great idea to borrow from them for all kinds of other projects.
Later, doubts crept in. Can we just borrow freely from other knitting traditions? Anything? From any tradition? When does borrowing become stealing? Or even cultural appropriation? What if a pattern has a special religious or spiritual meaning for the culture we borrow it from of which we may not be aware?
I don’t have the answers. These are just some of the questions that popped into my head.
Well, back to my knitting book library. Sometimes people generously and thoughtfully give me books to add to it. My sister-in-law brought back this lovely booklet from a holiday in the island of Gotland, Sweden, a couple of years ago.
Like you, I have a collection of books with patterns for knitting, as well as for sewing, quilting and needlepoint. I also have a love of the textile arts. Having an understanding of a pattern’s historical, cultural or religious significance can enhance our appreciation as well as help avoid unintentional offence.
In the art world, if a piece of art is either a copy or similar in design to a well known artist, it is referred to as ‘in the style of’ or -style, such as Flemish style, which can help avoid confusion. Your Shetland-style shawl is an impressive piece of work.
Thank you for your thoughtful comment – it really helps me in my thinking. Yes, having an understanding of patterns makes all the difference. I feel fairly ‘safe’ about Northern European patterns, but it was patterns from cultures I don’t know anything about at the sock exhibition that raised questions for me. And what a great idea to look at the art world in this context! Calling my shawl a Shetland-style hap feels much better than calling it a Shetland hap. If you ever have any tips for books about a particular subject, please let me know.
What a cliffhanger!
Your thoughts are very interesting. I recently became interested in Bohus knitting which originates not far from our summer house. I joined an FB group and enjoy very much looking at the lovely projects. However, I become impatient with the devoutness of some members. True, copyright and design trademarks must be respected. But as a knitter I hardly ever follow a pattern. I modify, add and subtract freely without even thinking about it. After all, I’m gonna wear the thing and the advantage of making your own garments is that you can make them just as you want them.
My mother-in-law is an avid knitter but just the opposite. She follows patterns and recipes to the detail. Interestingly, she grew up in Norway and was taught to knit at an early age and has knitted loads of traditional sweaters. I grew up without any handicraft models close by and taught myself to knit and sew when I was a teenager.
A Bohus sweater is one of the things on my knitting wish list. So beautiful. The problem there may be that it isn’t a tradition that has evolved over time from various sources, but originally was very much a designer-led ‘brand’. As Wendy remarked in her comment, it might not be a problem not to adhere strictly to a pattern, as long as you call your variation Bohus-style instead of plain Bohus. It surprises me to read that you didn’t have any handicraft models around growing up. I thought everybody in Sweden was taught to knit at an early age, but that seems to be an incorrect stereotype in my mind. You were fortunate to at least have access to the materials as a teenager, so that you could follow your personal interests.
I had no idea that Swedes are perceived as such avid knitters!
My mother revolted against my grandmother’s somewhat joyless attitude to handicrafts. I think that was why she never taught me. Instead she praised everything I made!
Well done, Mum!