Hello!
Phew, it’s finished! My Panel Debate cardigan, I mean. It took me about 8 months from start to finish. Well, I knit several other things in between, but on 2.75 mm (US 2) needles and with quite a few technical challenges, it wasn’t a quick knit.
It certainly was interesting, though, and I thought you might like to read about some of the special techniques (so much I-cord!) and what helped me finish it.
Panel Debate is a pattern by Danish designer Bente Geil, and can be found on Ravelry under its Danish name Paneldebat. I used one of the designer’s own yarns: Geilsk Bomuld og Uld – a light fingering weight blend of 55% wool and 45% cotton.
Reading through the pattern, I couldn’t make head nor tail of the instructions for the neckline. There seemed to be something wrong, so I e-mailed the designer. She said she’d look into it and sent me a new version of the pattern the very next day (during her Summer break!). Excellent service, I have to say.
The design is modular and is made up of many panels (hence the name).
Each panel is knit onto the previous one, and the panels are alternately knit horizontally and vertically. The vertical strips end in fans made by knitting short rows.
What helped me knit the fans, was copying the instructions for them onto a separate page, with each step on a new line. I marked the row I was knitting with a sticky note and moved that down after each row. That way I was able to keep track of where I was.
I lengthened the body by 4 cm (approx. 1.6 inches). No problem at all – just added the required length to the first 3 panels and the rest took care of itself. I also enlarged the armholes because I’d heard from several other knitters that they’d turned out rather tight.
After the body was completed, the armholes were finished with attached I-cords.
Armhole before…
… and after attaching I-cord.
Then stitches for the sleeves needed to be picked up from the I-cord (the sleeves are knit from the top down). That really was a pain at first. But it went a lot better using a crochet hook and slipping the stitches from the hook onto the knitting needle.
Then I had to adapt the sleeve cap to the enlarged armhole. That was a bit of a puzzle, but after several tries I was happy. I used the magic loop method to knit the sleeves.
I’m not entirely happy with that, because it shows all along the middle of the sleeves. I hope the line will fade with washing and wearing. I haven’t had this problem before. Could it be because of the cotton content of the yarn? Or the reverse stocking stitch ridges?
The sleeves are finished with I-cord along the wrists as well.
Finally there was more I-cord to knit – all along the fronts and the neck. First I had to pick up a zillion stitches. Then I cast on 4 extra stitches for the I-cord.
I knit a few inches, saw that the I-cord ‘pulled’ on the front and frogged it. After repeating this several times, I finally found out how to solve it – by pulling the first stitch (on the outside of the I-cord) up a little longer than usual and holding it between my thumb and index finger while knitting the second stitch, to keep it from tightening.
This is the attached I-cord knitting process step by step:
1 – The 4 I-cord stitches are on the left needle, together with the picked-up stitches on the panel. At this stage, the yarn is hanging between the picked-up stitches on the garment and the 4 I-cord stitches. Now the yarn is passed behind the stitches to the first stitch on the right.
2 – Knit 3 stitches (knitting the 1st stitch very loosely and keeping it from tightening by holding it between thumb and index finger while knitting the 2nd stitch). Slip the 4th stitch knitwise, knit the first picked-up stitch along the panel and lift the slipped stitch over this stitch.
3 – Now slip the 4 I-cord stitches back onto the right needle.
Repeat these 3 steps for hours on end, until all of the picked up stitches along the fronts and neck have been used up, meanwhile making button holes along the right front.
Finally, ‘all’ I needed to do was weave in what seemed like an endless number of ends.
I put on some music, and several cups of tea later that was done, too.
Oh, and let’s not forget the buttons! I happened to have just the right ones, bought long ago in a lovely little shop.
There, all finished!
Here is a close-up of the very special armhole.
And this is what the cardi looks like from the back.
What helped me through the challenging parts of this knit was:
- Finding moments in my week when my brain was up for a challenge (for me especially Saturday mornings)
- Cutting the process up into smaller steps, taking a break after finishing a step and giving myself a figurative pat on the back
- Using a crochet hook for picking up stitches
- Copying difficult bits onto a separate page and keeping track of where I was by means of sticky notes
- Relaxing and uplifting music in the background
- Having good (day)light
- Blogging about it
All in all, I’m happy with the process and happy with the result!
Well, that was a lot of technical detail. Sorry to the non-knitters among you (it’s a miracle you even got this far). If all goes according to plan, my next post will be of more general interest. Bye for now, and hope to see you again soon!
What a very pretty cardigan and I enjoyed reading the knitting heavy post! Lots of work, but as far as I can see totally worth it to start some steps over again to neaten them. Those i-cords take forever, but what a sleek, polished look!
I think the line on the sleeves from magic looping will indeed probably be due to the purl rounds – perhaps your gauge is looser when you purl or you pull the yarn differently after turning when you begin with a purl stitch. I’m pretty sure it will even out over time and on these pictures I cannot even see it!
I think you’re probably right about the purl rounds. Thanks! And, yes, I really love the neatness of the I-cords, too.
Och wat een prachtig vest, staat perfect!
Dank je. Het voelt ook lekker met de combinatie van wol en katoen.
Thank you for detailing your process. I’ve bookmarked this post for the future – such a handsome jacket, well worth all the work.
My pleasure. I can really recommend it, if you’re looking for a challenge. And the yarn feels really nice, too, half wool and half cotton.
This is absolutely stunning!!!! Of course, since I love blue, that helps as well. What a work of art. If it took you 8 months, it would probably take me 2 to 3 years. I really love the construction and also the neat finish that the I cord edge. As much as I think that I would like to give this a try, I probably won’t – I am too slow – my brain has started to play tricks on me when reading instructions to causes many problems and delays – plus I would want to modify it to be a pullover and also bring the neckline up which would be beyond my knowledge level – especially the neckline – so I will just admire your. Enjoy wearing it.
Thanks, I will! And there are many other and simpler ways to use applied I-cord. I will definitely be using it more in future.
Very professional finish, beautiful colour and I like the delicate buttons.
Thank you! I have quite a collection of mother of pearl buttons and I’m always happy if I can use some of them.
Zo!
Petje af, Marijke. Wat mooi!
Dank je. Ik ben er zelf ook erg blij mee; vooral dat het me gelukt is het af te maken.